Friday July 20th
It has been five years since we have been on a trip with friends riding the bikes. Way too long but life has a way of throwing unexpected events at you that are beyond our control.
New tires and brakes on the trike and the Red Vixen is gassed up. A new cooler for drinks, camera, bags are packed (thank you again, Dawn, for the packing list). Passports, nexus cards, golden access pass for the parks, medical cards, rain gear, cool gear, heated gear (not sure other than the 1st morning anything heated will be needed but with a temp of 65 degrees at 55 mph real feel is 25 degrees) and I am sure there will be something we forget; just hope it is something small that we can live without.
I forgot what it takes to pack for seven days on the road. Throw in crossing the border to Canada with a few extra do’s and do nots--Whew! Ready. Set. Go. Excited!
Saturday July 21st
We met up at Starbucks and it was wonderful to see everyone. Updates on life, laughs, and we were on the road. Dave, Lorie, Maynard, Bill, Marla, Larry, and myself. We were missing Dave and Dawn, but they were unable to ride this time.
Get your motor runnin'
Head out on the highway
Lookin' for adventure
And whatever comes our way
Nexus cards should be checked before trying to use them to cross the border. Mine expired on my birthday last month. That meant a trip inside the building with ID’s to explain where we were going and if we were with those other bikers. Good thing I also had my passport card.
We left behind the cornfields in Whatcom Country and smells of watering fields with liquid manures. The fields quickly turned into forest in British Columbia and I could smell the fresh scent of the pine trees. Traffic was not too bad and really cleared out east of Hope as we continued on highway 3.
Riding as the sweep behind Bill and Marla, was fun to watch as Bill reached back to pat Marla’s leg. Something you will see the guys do often. Love pats.
I never did plug my heated gear in but wore the liner as a layer. In Princeton I packed it away as the day began to heat up. Lunch in Princeton was at Billy’s and Marla took a chance and ordered the borsch soup. Probably the last time she orders it. Copper mining is the main source of employment and our waitress said it is predicted they can mine for another fifteen years. The glimpses of the hillsides being cutaway in layers is both a marvel at engineering and sadness to see the beautiful hills destroyed.
Lots of twists and turns through the mountain passes and we arrived in Castlegar about six PM. So how hard is it to use a hotel key card? Not as easy as you might think. There was one luggage cart, but it was not to be found, so we had to carry all our bags down a long hallway to find the elevator. If we had found the luggage cart it was two steps below the hallway we needed to walk down. Go figure. Some of us found the elevator right away, some of us walked by it still searching and cussin’ (no names will be mentioned to protect the guilty). We were all on the third floor and you needed a key card in the elevator to get to the third floor, no other floor, just the third floor. Lorie’s key did not work, mine did not work so back down the long hallway to the desk to figure this out. The desk clerk said my key was working so back down the hallway to find Lorie and Marla and neither of their keys worked. Mine finally did and we made it to the third floor. I went back down to help the guys since the women had all the keys and as the elevator door opened Dave and Larry stepped out, they came up when I punched in the down button. Well it seems like Marla gave Bill the key card to the breakfast room instead of a room card and he could not go up or down. When he finally arrived on the third floor he could not get into his room because again the breakfast card won’t work in the door. Maynard is the only one who appears to have figured out the system. You really need to hear Bill tell the story because it is much funnier than I can convey. A quick rest then we walked to Boston’s for dinner and called it an early night because we need to be on the road between 7:15 AM and 7:30 AM the earlier the better.
Larry said today was “a practice day” meaning to ease into the heat that we will start to encounter on Monday.
Total miles 352
Animal sightings: cows, horses, llamas, goats, 1 deer, 1 eagle
Sunday July 22nd
Continental breakfast included omelets, I was told. I was like wow great breakfast and then Dave burst my bubble and told me they were precooked, prepackaged, heat the microwave--so it was strawberry yogurt for me.
Still riding east on highway 3 through the mountains. I had my heated liner on but not plugged in. I could have used my heated gloves, but I forgot those at home. Warning signs to watch for deer, caribou, mountain goats, deer, and moose but they must have been playing hide and seek.
There are still small pockets of snow in some of the north facing cervices on the mountains. Looking down at the river I could see a meadow covered in dew that glistened as the early morning sun came over the rise. Kootenay Pass was 5,820 feet with a small pond near the top as we began our descent. Blue flowers lined both sides of the roadway as we entered Creston, although they could have been weeds but who cares they were beautiful.
Cranbrook is a big town, bigger than I expected. We had a pit stop at A&W and I asked Dave if he had ever been to Cranbrook and he said, “I’ve been everywhere.” So, leader of the pack has a new theme song by Johnny Cash.
I've been everywhere, man
I've been everywhere, man
Crossed the deserts bare, man
I've breathed the mountain air, man
Travel, I've had my share, man
I've been everywhere
We stopped for lunch at Smitty's Family Restaurant in Fernie (one of Dave’s favorite towns) before starting the afternoon leg of our journey. We passed through Sparwood home of the world largest truck, a 1974 Terex Titan built by General Motors and the only one that was ever built.
Still traveling on highway 3 we passed through Crow’s Nest Pass, the site of the largest landslide in Canada. On April 29, 1903, 82 million tons of limestone rock broke off the peak of Turtle Mountain. The section that broke was 3,300 ft. wide, 1,394 ft. high and 490 ft. deep traveling at 70 mph.
The terrain changed from thick forest as we left British Columbia and opened up into vast farmland fields in Alberta. Mile after mile of mustard in various stages of growth and color, light green, lime green, soft yellow, to brilliant yellow.
We are now riding south on highway 2 and drove through the small community of Stand Off which is part of the Blood Indian Reservation. The Indian Nationals Final Rodeo was in town and trucks parked everywhere near the fairgrounds and on the opposite side of the road was the fair with rides and kids. Small town life is the same everywhere.
Our home for the night was in Cardston Alberta Canada. It was good to get a shower and get rid of the road dust and grime. Dinner choices were limited but staying in a small town you expect that. Bill got his appetizer at Burger King and then we dined at Subway.
Total miles 332
Animal sightings: I saw 1 deer, Marla takes the prize for seeing turkeys.
Monday July 23rd
Up and on the road. When you stay in a small-town, chances are there won’t be any places open to eat at seven AM, or to gas up. We headed to the border and saw several deer grazing next to the road. Dave and Lorie went by and the deer stayed put. Maynard drove by and the deer spooked. Bill and Marla rode by and the deer were running beside them. Larry and I thought the buck was going to jump in front of us but at the last second it turned away from the road. Thank you, God, for watching over us.
The border crossing was easy, and our guard was from Blaine WA, just up the road from where we all live. This nice border guard also asked why we had an enhanced drivers license, a nexus card, and a passport card. We explained and then he told us everything we need is on our enhanced driver license card and we only need the real passport if we are flying out of the country. Too bad someone had not explained that before we paid for each of those extra cards. Lesson learned, ask more questions.
On a wing, a prayer, and almost fumes, we made it to Saint Mary’s for fuel for the bikes and our bodies. The Park Café had coffee, bacon, eggs, and more coffee. Now the fun part begins, Going to the Sun, Glacier National Park.
This is my third trip and favorite direction to view the park, East to West-- hugging the mountain side, away from the sheer drop off with a foot-tall rock barrier. Can you tell I am afraid of heights? The weather was perfect, no clouds and you could see to the top of the mountains and the valleys below. There were far fewer cars going west which made the trip even nicer. We started in Saint Mary’s, passing Rising Sun, Going to the Sun and Logan Pass at the top where we stopped. Marla found several Columbian Ground Squirrels near the visitor’s center. She might have dropped a piece or two or three of her healthy granola bar that the squirrel found. I might have dropped a few cashew nuts accidently when I was pouring the nuts out of the bags into Larry’s hand. Sorry; we tried to be good, sometimes accidents happen. We continued past Red Rock Point and McDonald Lake, into West Glacier park entrance.
Larry and I have been through a lot in the last year and a half, losing Larry’s mother at age 99 and my mother age 100, within six months of each other. This trip with friends is part of the healing. When we came off the mountain and began our ride alongside Lake McDonald I could feel some of the heaviness that had been weighing on my heart and mind begin to lift. I am sure the car behind us wondered what I was doing when I threw out my open arms and lifted my face to the sun and said thank you God for giving us true friends to laugh with, talk with, and enjoy the adventure of riding with.
Being back in the USA meant we could now find unsweetened tea in the convenience store and restaurants. It seems all tea is sweetened in Canada. We stocked up as we were leaving the park. The adventure for some was not over as a few needed to sit on the Sinclair Dinosaur. You just never know with this group.
We rode south heading for Missoula along Flat Head Lake which is largest natural freshwater lake west of the Mississippi River. Riding alongside the lake it seemed to go on forever as did the cherry orchards. There must have been a fruit stand every hundred feet. We stopped in Polson for lunch and then a short ride into Missoula and the Harley shop. Larry needed to get the lug nuts tightened on the bike and of course we all needed to do a bit of shopping before finding our hotel for the evening and having dinner.
Total mileage 237
Animal sightings: Columbian Ground Squirrels
Tuesday July 24th
It was a dark and stormy night…haha Marla and Dave. In reality it was a hot and hotter day. As we began our ride on highway 12. The road side sign said 99 miles twist/turns and it was. Beautiful scenery riding next to the Clearwater River in the morning. A bit chilly but one I would not have traded to have that cool morning air as they day wore on. There was even a small stretch of the roadway that was wet from a squall that moved in and out before we got there. Federal prison labor was used in the late 1930s to build the road. Japanese internment labor was used during the last two years of World War II, working out of the Kooskia Internment Camp to complete highway 12.
The morning ride was on part of The Lewis and Clark Trail. In 1804 Captain Meriwether Lewis and his close friend Second Lieutenant William Clark formed the first American expedition to cross the western portion of the United States. It took a year and half to complete the journey. Our portion of the trail only took us a few hours on the twisty road with multiple stops for construction.
We stopped at the summit on highway 95 to view the scenic lookout and read about the Nez Perce battle. The northbound grade of White Bird Hill Summit climbs 2,700 feet in seven miles. Originally, the old road was twice the length and had a multitude of switchbacks ascending a treeless slope.
While we were resting a nice woman told us about the fires down below where we would be traveling. Started by lightening strikes they grew overnight and we watched helicopters dropping buckets of water. This was a closest to a forest fire that I have ever been. To see the burned trees, the ground smoldering, and the occasional flames from the uncontained fire was horrendous. The fire crews were doing an amazing job saving homes and structures. Over the hill beyond our vision we could see huge plumes of smoke with an occasional burst of black smoke. With more hot weather in the forecast it will be a lot of hard work to contain the fire. God bless the firefighters.
We stopped for lunch at The Seven Devils in Riggins and as Marla said, “you have to love yourself before you can love someone else.” So, our waitress was from the dark side and clearly did not love herself and it went from bad to worse. Ever see a chicken taco with a chicken finger stuck inside a cold tortilla and nothing else? How about chicken fingers that looked like nuggets or tough hamburgers you have to cut with a knife. She was a bit peeved because we needed separate checks and we did not see the sign that said only one check for groups over six. Dave offered to move but she was already in a really foul mood by then. A tip, did you say, when the check came? No, not this time. The real kicker was Larry forgot his water bottle for the bike and I volunteered to walk back to the restaurant to get it. If looks could kill I would not made it out alive, but I got the bottle and got out quick, feeling lucky our waitress had not dumped the water bottle. I stood across from the bar with my thumb out hoping my husband would stop and pick me up. Of course, I had that water bottle he wanted so I was pretty sure he would stop.
We made the last pit stop of the day at a little bar/store where we found cold water, iced tea, and Gatorade. The workers were friendly and chatted about rides, Sturgis, and Harleys with us. Need a plastic cup, no charge. Maybe we should have paid for the air conditioning because in hundred plus temperatures it was welcome relief.
Found our lodgings for the night in Ontario Oregon, with a restaurant near by that we could walk to. Lights out early because it is another long day with more hot weather.
Today was 350 miles.
Animals sightings: turkeys, geese, deer and an Eagle
Wednesday July 25th
We were on the road by 7:00 AM. Dave has adjusted the route to shorten a few miles off the day in anticipation of high temperatures. First song up on our sound system as we rode out was “I Will Survive.” We are headed towards John Day on the roads less traveled and I really mean less traveled as it appeared we are almost the only ones out there on the road. It is cool, but I won’t complain because I know by late afternoon I will be wishing it was in the low sixties.
Farmland as far as you can see growing onions, alfalfa, and hay with an occasional stockyard that you could smell before you actually saw it. Lots of small dying towns made up of several buildings with boarded up windows. Some communities had a school and a grange hall, maybe a church. You really have to love farming to live a fairly isolated life.
The John Day Fossil Beds National Monument is amazing with the painted hills, and the Clarno Palisades. We were warned of a fire ahead of us, but it was farther west and did not interfere with the ride. A lot of sagebrush and open land, but again the weather was not as hot as predicted so the ride was more comfortable but still hot.
Last leg of the ride was 37 miles and we saw 29 vehicles which was more than we saw in the previous 258 miles today. Civilization! Hermiston near the Columbia River was our stop for the night. (Larry’s note: We passed by Ruggs Ranch, a pheasant hunting ranch that I’ve been watching on outdoor channels…I put my hand over my thumping heart!)
Total miles 295
Animals: ducks, a deer and her fawn, an elk and her calf, but Dave wins for seeing a coyote
Thursday July 26th
Heading to Colville and the weather is predicted to be only in the ninety’s.
Starting out our day riding next to the Columbia River watching seagulls swoop low over the water looking for fish. Glad we were going east as a huge number of truckers were going west.
Miles down the road after a truck going the opposite direction passed us, onion skins floated through the air. Lorie said they looked like butterflies when she first saw them.
Wheat fields began to appear near Walla Walla--Yes! I finally made it to Walla Walla. The wind turbines also began to appear lining the ridges of the hills as far as we could see. The wheat fields went from Walla Walla to the Palouse, up into part of Idaho. We started out in Oregon, passed into Washington, then into Idaho, then back into Washington. When you travel the backroads near the borders only the road matters, not which state you are in.
Couer deAlene, Rathdrum/Spirit lake, Newport on to Colville for the night. A small motel we have stayed at before with a nice restaurant next door. Early to bed early to rise.
Total miles 369
Animal sightings: seagulls, mules, bison
Friday Day 7
,
We were packed up, ready to go and rode out at 6:30 AM for the ride home. Through Republic, one of our destinations for several years, then Tonasket, Okanogan, and Winthrop as we headed over the mountain.
For a heart stopping few seconds we wondered if we were going to make it home. Double yellow line for both lanes and a truck pulling a boat decided to pass another small commercial truck going uphill. The truck/boat was in our lane and Dave was hugging the shoulder and Larry was moving over fast. The truck/boat had plenty of time when it saw us to back off and pull back into his lane but on he kept coming putting all our lives at risk.
We stopped at the Diablo lookout to breathe. Deep breath. Then it was onto Marblemount to gas up the bikes and find lunch. The weather was perfect to sit outside on the patio and enjoy the company of friends. We took highway 9 for the last leg of our route home and stopped at Acme for a short break. A three-wheel Vanderhall bike pulled in right before we left. Unusual in that it looks more like a car with the driver and passenger sitting side by side. Fun to look at but I like our Harley trike better. We waved goodbye in Ferndale. So much fun to ride with friends, laugh, see new sights, visit some old places, and make new memories. Can’t wait to ride again.
Total miles 303
Animal sightings: deer and her fawn
Thanks again to Dave and Lorie for planning this great ride.
